Vanessa Barrington

What I Finally Did with my Massa Organics Duck

Last fall, Greg tweeted that he’d be selling rice-paddy raised ducks at the Berkeley market if folks wanted to order ahead. I did. I picked mine up on a bright day in September or October. I have no idea which. It was frozen so I put it in the freezer thinking I’d cook it within the month.

 

All sorts of crazy life stuff ensued, including a move. The duck, of course, came with me to my new home and took up residence in my new freezer. Sitting there in my freezer all winter and into the spring, the duck took on a gigantic importance. It was a special duck. A Massa-raised duck. Not just any old duck. I had to DO something with it. Just roasting it would not do at all. I was waiting for an occasion.

 

Finally Haven’s mother was in town and since the two of us had been meaning to cook a dinner together out of Niloufer’s wonderful book, My Bombay Kitchen, we decided it was time. Only problem is that there wasn’t really a recipe for a whole duck in the book.  Improvisation was in order.

I decided to make the Green Curry Masala (page 135) that Niloufer says is versatile enough for lamb, brains, or chicken. My thought was to rub the duck with ginger garlic paste (page 36) and steam it for 15 minutes to render the fat. Then I’d rub it with the masala and roast it. I also made the Watercress and Turnip Salad (page 215). Haven made a variation on the Fresh Turmeric and Ginger Pickle (page 234) and her mother (appropriately) made Mother’s Khichri (page 165).  Sorry about the white rice! We didn’t use the Massa Rice.

All went swimmingly. In the end I decided the duck needed a little sauce so I whisked together some white wine, butter, and Green Curry Masala and we spooned it over the duck. Four of us picked that thing clean. It looked as if buzzards had gotten in and taken up residence at the dinner table. The appetizer was a real coup. Instead of flatbread we ate the pickle with Cowgirl Fromage Blanc (they were out of paneer) on toasted Massa Whole Wheat Tortillas.

I’m hoping for another duck this fall. Greg: are you listening?

 

Just before steaming. Steamer insert rigged up in wok with foil covering it for 15 minutes.

Just after steam bath.

Rendering fat to use for roasting potatoes.

After roasting. It wasn't that pretty but it sure was good. PS: 1 duck is barely enough for 4 people.

On Smuggling, Renaissance Men & Chile Baked Beans with Nopales and Queso Fresco

I found these beans back in January while wandering around the big market in Cuernavaca Mexico. Like almost all markets in Latin America, there’s so much to look at it was a little hard to take it all in. At one vendor’s stall I looked down and there, among the usual plastic woven bags filled to the brim with posole, beans, and chiles were these gorgeous, fat, purple beans. I had never seen them before.

I stopped and stared, waiting for the vendor to finish helping another customer. Interestingly, a solo male shopper somehow picked up on my excitement and in very slow, elementary Spanish patiently told me what they were called—Ayocote Beans. He then spelled the name for me slowly so I could write it in my notebook, and told me that these types of beans are commonly eaten with molé in the state of Morelos. I’ve cooked with Steve Sando’s Ayacotes, before but I’ve never seen the purple version.

Throughout this exchange, the vendor just watched us, smiling. I thanked the man profusely and marveled on what had just happened. In Mexico, the women in the household usually do the marketing and the cooking. Sometimes you’ll see entire families shopping together, but it is rare to see a man shopping for food alone, especially one so clearly passionate that he was willing to share his knowledge with an ignorant gringa. (Incidentally, some of the people I met in Cuernavaca call this place north of the border “Gringolandia”, but not unkindly) He was either a chef or a renaissance man.

I tucked these babies in my backpack, buried deeply in layers of dirty clothing and made it through customs. I only felt a little guilty for lying about not transporting “seeds or plants.” My plan if caught was to say, “Get Out! Beans are seeds? I had no idea!”

I hung onto these for a couple months until it was time to make a celebratory bean dish. I wanted to do them justice, but didn’t want to make molé. Plus I needed something vegetarian so I went on over to Heidi Swanson’s bean-friendly vegetarian blog, 101 Cookbooks, and found this recipe which I improvised from to create my own. Basically I kept the queso and pesto, ditched the breadcrumbs, added nopales, and switched out the tomato sauce for a straight chile sauce. You don’t have to smuggle exotic beans from Mexico. I think either recipe would be great with pretty much any bean—from pintos to cannellinis, to borlottis.

Chile Baked Beans with Nopales and Queso Fresco:

3 dried red New Mexico or Ancho Chiles

3 garlic cloves

1 pinch of Mexican oregano

1 pound of beans, cooked until tender with enough of their broth to be moist but not too soupy

2 nopales

Queso Fresco

Pesto:

1 bunch cilantro

2 garlic cloves

Juice of 1/2 of a lemon

Salt to taste

Olive oil

Destem and remove the seeds from the chiles. Toast the chiles in a hot dry cast iron pan or comal until fragrant but not smoking, about 20 seconds per side.

Remove them to a small bowl and pour boiling water over. Soak for 20 minutes.

  

Put the chiles, the 3 garlic cloves, the oregano, and a few pinches of salt in a food processor or blender, reserving the chile soaking water. Process until smooth, adding chile soaking water a little at a time until the puree is the consistency like that of thin batter.

Using the edge of a sharp knife, scrape the spines off the nopales. Slice them into thin strips and then dice them. Boil for 10 minutes in salted water until tender. Drain.

 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and, in a large casserole dish, stir together the beans, the chile puree and the nopales. Sprinkle with queso fresco and then bake until brown and bubbly.

Meanwhile, make the pesto. Place the cilantro leaves and garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Process until finely chopped. Add the lemon juice and salt and then slowly add the olive oil in a thin stream until the mixture is smooth and emulsified. Drizzle over each individual serving of beans.

A Sort of Persian, Mostly Vegetarian Passover

I finally wrangled an invitation to a Seder. For years I’ve only heard about the ceremony and the food, and finally this year I got to experience both. I also had the opportunity to help cook this one, so I was really excited.

 

Our hostess, Haven Bourque, decided on a Persian menu. There were several reasons for this: One was a recent musical outing, that inspired us to want to eat Persian food, one was an article in the New York Times, and one was a vegetarian on the guest list, and our own veggie leanings.

 

Here’s the menu:

 

First Course:

 

Seder plate—in the Persian tradition green onions are on the table for the guests to beat one another with. Yep, that’s right. It symbolizes the sting of the whips of the Egyptian slaveholders. Rather fun and they do sting!

 

The charoset was wonderful. Lots of delicious dried fruits, cardamom, and pistachios.

 

Second Course:

Beet soup—very simple vegetarian version made with beets and leeks and balanced with champagne vinegar and then garnished with lebne and cilantro.

 

Third Course:

Smoked salmon

Asparagus roasted in a blazing hot oven with olive oil and salt

Deviled Eggs

 

Mainish Course:

 

Two types of grape leaves—one with lamb and rice and one with rice and dried fruit from the recipe in the New York Times above

 

Roasted/braised baby artichokes: Quartered and roasted with salt, olive oil, thyme sprigs, and sliced lemons until brown and then oven-braised in white wine.

 

Dessert:

Flourless chocolate cake and macaroons from La Farine and illegal for Passover baklava from Zand’s. Best baklava I’ve ever had. I finally understand why people eat baklava.

 

The ceremony was great. It was a secular humanist Passover and we sung songs of social justice while drinking plenty of wine.

 

Hope I get invited back next year!

 

Mexico 3: The final days in Cuernavaca

My final week was filled with great eats and as many market trips as I could fit in between classes. I really didn't want to leave and need to figure out a way to go back and stay for an extended period of time.

On a coincidentally sad note, during that final week, I was reading Mountains upon Mountains, the book about Dr. Paul Farmer's work in Haiti. When I got to the airport the afternoon of Jan. 13th and saw the news about the earthquake, I was utterly stricken after reading in such detail the incredible harshness of everyday life for the majority of people in Haiti. At the same time, my grammar lessons at the school, Cetlalic were accompanied by lessons on the social, political and economic reality for the people in Mexico. Things aren't so easy there either.

As conduct my daily life here in the US, no matter how hard any day or situation might become, I try to remember how incredibly privledged I am to always have enough to eat, a roof over my head, and the means to be a "budget traveler" in countries less well off than ours. Enjoy this last installment of photos and I promise we'll be back to our regularly scheduled recipe posts soon!

The picture at the top of this post is a rosca de reyes and it's for the special celebration called "the feast of the three kings". (incidentally, my people celebrate Jan 6th as "Serbian Christmas) This is the day in Mexico that the children go crazy for--the day they wake up at 6 am to recieve their gifts! The traditional food is this cake and hot chocolate. 

Inside the cake are 4 or 5 little white plastic babies. The people who get the babies in their piece of cake have to have a party on February 2nd, for which they provide tamales and atole. Unfortunately, none of the parties were close enough for me to attend. Fortunately I didn't get a baby because I was in the middle of moving on February 2nd and it would have been hard to have a party!

the child unswaddled.

Oh yeah, it tasted good too.

All the bakeries have roscas displayed all day and the next and people everywhere are carrying big boxes of roscas home to eat. You've got to love a bakery called "the happy turtle"

tamarind pods in the market

chilis and cheerios

Maize, maize, maize!

Crazy potatoes!

Caldo de pollo eaten en casa. I can't get enough of this.

The best enchiladas ever. Chicken, queso, crema, red rice and fried plantains!

Facing down your meat. Sorry vegans and vegetarians. 

Another crazy market sighting.

The preferred way to eat corn on the street in Cuernavaca is cut off the cob, and spooned piping hot into a cup with mayonnaise, lime, chili, and cheese. Yum.

Super cool pro-Choice poster in the bathroom at a bar. I took this photo from the toilet!

Comida and Markets in Cuernavaca Mexico

I'm finally getting around to posting some of my food photos from my trip to Cuernavaca. I lived with a family there for two weeks while I studied Spanish at a wonderful school called Cetlalic How's my Spanish now? Let's just say it's better but I'm more fluent in the food of Mexico than in the language.

The entire experience was amazing. The school has a unique method of teaching grammar in a cultural, political, and social context. The teachers are engaging and super smart. The family I lived with was warm and kind and Dona Mari welcomed me into her kitchen with open arms, let me help her and take photos and answered so many questions. She said she doesn't like to cook, but I don't believe her because it's not possible to make such wonderful food for a perfect stranger unless you like doing it.

The home was comfortable and the people in the city of Cuernavaca are inviting and helpful. Cuernavaca also has a wonderful market that is large, lively, and full of delicious things to eat. I think I'll go back. I have family and friends in Mexico now. So much better than being a tourist!

Here's the first installment of photos and captions. Enjoy!

 

A typical cena (around 3-4pm) after school. Soup, nopale salad, salsa, agua de jamaica, freshly made tortillas, some kind of meat (not pictured).

Freshly made gorditas in the market. Stuffed with beans, freshly fried and then topped with fiery green salsa, crema and delicious cheese. Craving these now!

Prepping the fruit for the punche, a fruit cocktail/punch to enjoy with the traditional New Years Eve Posole.

The punche on the stove cooking. Many fruits as well as fresh sugar cane and tamarind.

 

Tacos dorados to serve with the posole. Half are stuffed with potatoes and green chile and the other half with requeson (a type of cheese).

Here is the New Years meal. Posole blanco, (traditional accompaniments oregano, lime, chile, avocado) punche, tacos dorados, enjoyed at 11pm before fireworks. 

 

These are the fireworks. It's a structure with a bull in front carried by a runner. Fireworks fly off in every crazy direction and the people in the streets run with the bulls. It's nuts.

 

Another market photo

A really cool prehispanic cooking vessel in the excellent museum at the ruins at Xochicalco, an important site outside of Cuernavaca.

Gorgeous banana blossom on the tree at the school.

That's it for now. Look for another installment of Markets and Comida in Cuernavaca soon!

All my Pretty Pickles and a Happy Announcement

It's been pickling pandemonium around the homestead these last two weeks. Why, you ask, am I making pickles with not-quite-in-season vegetables when summer is just around the corner? Yes, they look delicious, but definitely out of character. The reason is because I'm working on a new book and deadlines don't care what's in season when.

You may have noticed that my recent posts have had a distinctly DIY character (and been somewhat irregular). That's because the focus of the book is resourceful, no waste, make-it-yourself deliciousness. Restoring the lost arts, building blocks for the kitchen and all that. Publication is scheduled for fall 2010 with Chronicle Books (with photos by the talented Sara Remington, who also did the photos for Heirloom Beans). The manuscript is due in exactly a month!

We're still settling on the final title but in the book you'll find plenty of pickles as well as basic dairy products, homemade beverages, all manner of grain-based goodness, condiments for your pantry and fridge, and meal building ideas utilizing all your homemade products.

I hope you find this as exciting as I do. I will tell you this: I've been having a lot of fun in the kitchen and am really starting to see the book take shape. I hope to help people avoid unnecessary packaging and additives, save money, have a lot of fun, and gain confidence in the kitchen arts and sciences. I don't want this book to be aspirational. Large sections of the book will be tips and ideas to demonstrate how to use and combine the different homemade items to make quick, healthy, everyday meals.

Pickle Key

Clockwise from upper left:
Wild fermented half-sour dills
Spicy table pickles
Lacto-fermented baby beets
Bread & butter pickles
Spicy pickled green beans
Cucumber garlic relish (center)