Vanessa Barrington

A Healthy, Restorative Meal with Sablefish and Dal

I rarely cook a protein, starch, veg meal anymore. And I rarely eat fish either. Our oceans are just so endangered, that it’s a once-in-awhile treat these days. And it’s gotta be on Seafood Watch’s green list, or I’m not even eating it as a treat.

If you’ve never cooked sablefish, you’ll find that it’s a reasonable substitute for the overfished rockfish and snapper usually used in dishes like fish tacos, and other preparations where you want a mild, white fillet of fish. It has a moist texture that lends itself well to a variety of preparations. I always find myself wishing it were a little flakier and a little less gelatinous, but it works pretty well. You may also see it as Black Cod at the fish counter.

This was a really easy dinner to make with little prep time and few ingredients. Its only down side is the number of pots and pans I used. One for the fish, one for the rice, one for the greens and yet another for the dal. If you cook the dal on a different day, that will make it a little less dish intensive.

For the dal, I use red split lentils and just cook them in water with a little turmeric and salt until tender (takes about 20 minutes) Then I sauté chilies (either fresh green or dried red) with mustard seeds, cumin seeds, garlic, shallots, and whatever else I’m feeling like adding, over high heat in oil or ghee and then quickly add the sizzling hot mixture to the dal, stir in and cover to permeate the dal with flavor. Ratio of lentils to water is about 4 to 1. The rest you’ll have to eyeball.


For the fish, I followed a recipe in Niloufer King’s fabulous James Beard Award winning My Bombay Kitchen for masala seafood. You don’t even need a recipe. It’s basically cayenne, turmeric and salt rubbed into scored fish fillets that are then fried quickly in a very small amount of oil. It’s wonderful and wonderfully easy. The rest of the meal is just sautéed mustard greens and Massa Brown Rice with some sprigs of fresh cilantro.

And Hey! I’m going to Mexico for two weeks so you might not hear from me. I might try to blog from there, but not sure. At any rate, expect some good posts about Mexican food when I return. I’m staying with a family and I hear the Senora is a very good cook and I’ve been assured that I’ll be welcome in her kitchen. Qué Bueno! Feliz Navidad Y Año Nuevo!

Magic Pumpkins: Pumpkin Pie and Pumpkin Cream Cheese Bread

I bought one of Annabelle’s magic white pumpkins on her recommendation. She said they were the best for pie. I always believe her. Even though I never make pumpkin pie (I always have the Thanksgiving guests bring it so I can concentrate on the savories) I thought I might as well give it a whirl.

I cut into it and I couldn’t believe the otherworldly day-glo quality of the flesh. And the beautiful line of pale green between white and orange. I couldn’t stop gazing. But into the oven it went in a glass casserole dish with a half-inch of water, covered in foil. I baked it until soft (about 30 minutes). It looked stringy but I scooped it into the food processor and gave it a whirl and it became a flawlessly smooth puree.

 
Then I made pie from the Jimtown Store Cookbook. It’s a wonderfully robust pie, not at all insipid. Filled with dark brown sugar, molasses and spices, including black pepper. Fantastic!

Then I froze some of the puree until this week and decided to make pumpkin bread. I’ve never made pumpkin bread before either, but I’ve eaten a lot of it. I like the kind with a cream cheese layer, so I Iooked around for recipes and found this one. But I wanted the quality of my bread to be robust, like the pie, so I made the recipe my own by adding more spices, molasses, dark brown sugar and a pecan streusel on top. It turned out great.

Here’s my version:

Pumpkin Bread:

1 cup pecans

1 cup butter , plus more for pans

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of allspice

A few grindings of black pepper

4 large eggs

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

1 cup dark brown sugar, lightly packed (divided)

1 1/2 cups pumpkin puree

1 tablespoon molasses

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract


Cream Cheese Filling:

8 ounces package cream cheese

1/2 cup granulated white sugar

2 large eggs

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons all purpose flour


Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and toast the pecans for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, melt the butter and set it aside to cool. Butter and lightly flour two  9 x 5 x 3 inch loaf pans. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and black pepper. Set aside.

In another large bowl, whisk the eggs until lightly beaten. Add the granulated sugar, 3/4 cup of the brown sugar, and melted butter and whisk until blended.  Whisk or stir in the pumpkin puree, molasses, and vanilla extract.

Make the cream cheese filling:
In a food processor, process the cream cheese until smooth, add the sugar and process until blended and smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, processing just until incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.  Add the flour and vanilla extract and process briefly.

Add the flour/spice mixture to the pumpkin mixture and stir just until the ingredients are combined, without overmixing.

Put one-quarter of the pumpkin batter into the two loaf pans, spreading it evenly. Top each one with one-half of the cream cheese filling.  Top the cream cheese with the remaining pumpkin batter.

Chop the nuts coarsely and toss with the remaining 1/4 cup brown sugar. Sprinkle evenly over the top of each loaf pan.

Bake the breads for about 60-80 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean.

Place pans on a wire rack and let cool for about 10 minutes before removing breads.

Give one away and keep one! Or freeze one.

Fall Chicories Salad and Free Soup Class this Friday in Emeryville

This is one of those salads I could eat every day for months. All local from the farmers' market. Annabelle's puntarelle and escarole, Blossom Bluff persimmons, Art Davis' pecans (spiced with a little brown sugar, cayenne and other spices), and Somebody's pomegranates but I don't remember whose. It's bitter and sweet and crunchy and spicy and refreshing and it's just a great salad. I usually make a lighter vinaigrette with shallots (no garlic) and lemon juice or Champagne vinegar.

In other news:

Nishanga and I will be teaching a FREE soup class this Friday at The Cog.

Ways with Soup
 
Join CoG members and cooking teachers Vanessa Barrington and Nishanga Bliss in an exploration of the many ways of making economical, nourishing, delicious soups.  Veggie stocks and bone broths, the wonders of miso, cream soups and bean soups, soups and fermentation, recipes, and much much more!  Bring a mug and spoon for tasting.  FREE! If you're not a member come and learn from Susan Fleming how The Cog can save you money.
 7pm at The Cog 67th and Hollis in Emeryville.

Delicious Spiced Lamb Patties

Last month when I was working my shift at The Cog, I happily discovered a rancher selling lamb out of a refrigerator in the back of a truck parked just up the street.

How exciting is that? I couldn’t help but wonder how many other illicit direct-from- farmer-to-consumer meat purchases were happening all over the Bay Area on dark, deserted side streets. Of course I later discovered that it wasn’t an accident that the truck was on that particular street on that particular night. Turns out my friend Nishanga (another COG member) actually told the rancher it might be good to park there.

The lamb was there, so I had to buy some. I bought one pound of ground lamb because that’s all he had that he could sell without a preorder.

Back when I used to eat more meat, I used to make deliciously seasoned lamb patties often. They’re quick, easy, satisfying, and really tasty.

It was fun to revisit these in a slaphappy sort of non-measuring way. Below is a list of all the ingredients I used, but since I didn’t measure you’ll have to eyeball and then cook up a little to taste for proper seasoning.

And here’s an excellent idea: The holidays are approaching. Mini lamb meatballs nestled in small lettuce cups with yogurt might make a nice little appetizer. Think I’ll try it.

1 pound ground lamb

Freshly toasted ground cumin

Freshly toasted ground coriander

Finely chopped shallot

Garlic pounded to a paste

Chopped Parsley

Chopped Cilantro

Hot paprika

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Mix everything together and fry up a small amount to taste for proper seasoning. Form into patties, pan fry until just cooked through. Serve with a dollop of plain yogurt, and whatever else you like. Lentils are a good choice as is any kind of rice and seasonal vegetables.

Wild Salmon-Potato Cakes

I'm turning into my mother. She used to "do things" with canned salmon. Namely a tasty but disturbingly cat-food textured dip served with Ritz crackers. I never have "done things" with canned salmon other than eating it on salads like tuna. In one of my ongoing battles with odd bits of leftovers and an overfull pantry, I came up with an elegant way to use leftover potatoes and canned wild salmon. Yep, I "did something" with canned salmon.

The impetus consisted of three steamed russet potatoes that never quite made it into Susan’s birthday potato salad with the Yukons, because it hadn’t seemed quite right to mix them.

Those potatoes had been taunting me from the vegetable drawer for a couple of days. Just daring me to use them. I kept thinking of eggs, and breakfast, and hash, but it just never happened. Suddenly it was Monday night and I was faced with a drawer full of fresh vegetables and a mean protein craving, with nary a speck of flesh defrosted.

Resourcefulness kicked in.

Makes 4 small patties

3 medium steamed russet potatoes, peeled
1-7.5 ounce can of wild salmon, skin and bones removed (I snack on them or feed them to the dog) and flaked
About 2 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs such as parsley, tarragon, chives, whatever you have
A dollop of mayonnaise
Harissa paste or a sprinkling of good paprika or Aleppo pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

In a medium bowl, mash the potatoes with a potato masher until they are broken down, but with some texture remaining.

Add the salmon, herbs, a small spoonful of mayonnaise, the harissa or other pepper, and salt and pepper. Mix and check for seasoning. Also check to see if the mixture holds together when you try to form it into a patty. If not, add a little more mayonnaise until it does.

Form the mixture into 4 patties, dividing it evenly. Heat the oil in a cast iron pan over medium high heat until it is shimmering but not smoking. Carefully lower the patties into the pan. Cook on the first side until crisp and brown (2 to 3 minutes) Turn and cook the other side for an additional 2 to 3 minutes until brown. Serve immediately accompanied by seasonal vegetables. In this case it was steamed then sautéed broccoli with red pepper flakes and garlic, along with roasted golden beet and arugula salad.

An unexpectedly great Monday night dinner, and easy too!

Turning Sunburned Persimmons into Persimmon Butter

Blackened organic persimmons for 75 cents a pound vs. around $3 a pound?

Sign me up because I’m making persimmon butter. Bought these from Kaki at the Berkeley Farmers' Market. They told me the alarming-looking sooty skin wouldn’t affect the fruit and they were right.

This and the galette I’m using it for are the last two recipes for the book. I really wanted both recipes in the book so I’m thankful that Chronicle let me go past deadline until the persimmons came into season. I wavered between using Hachiyas (the more obvious choice) or Fuyus. Fuyus are more readily available and I figured they would behave like apples when turned into butter. Whereas the Hachiyas are lovely to eat and put into puddings and cakes as long as they are gooey ripe, which can take forever. I think I made the right choice, but I’ll be trying this with Hachiyas as well just to be sure.

I was also going for an interesting flavor profile so I settled on cinnamon, cardamom, rum, vanilla beans, and lime. Wow. It’s really good. Visions of holiday gifts are now dancing in my head.

Here’s the method:
Peel and cut the fruit into chunks and put it in the food processor.

Process until smooth and then put it through a potato ricer or food mill if you have one. If you don’t, it won’t make that much difference. 

Put the pulp in a heavy enameled cast iron pot and add a whole cinnamon stick, a whole vanilla bean, split and scraped, and the crushed seeds from one cardamom pod. Cook it down over low heat for at least an hour until it darkens and thickens, stirring occasionally and watching carefully so it doesn’t stick and burn. 

 

Add two tablespoons of white rum and continue to cook for 10 minutes. Add the zest of one lime grated on a microplane. Stir and taste. Cool and refrigerate. I used about 2 1/2 pounds of persimmons and it yielded about 2 cups of persimmon butter.

For the galette, I used about 3/4 of a cup of persimmon butter. I simply spread it on thinly leaving a border and then laid the apples out on top. The dough for the galette was my usual dough from this recipe but instead of all butter, I used 4 tablespoons leaf lard bought from Prather and 3 tablespoons butter. That turned out to be a very good decision. I brushed the apples and crust with a little butter halfway through baking. 

This was served in the Headlands kitchen to Eduardo, his baking assistant Megan, and a few people who wandered in. It was a hit.

The rest of the butter is being eaten on toast. Yesterday, I spread a little on a piece of whole wheat toast and added thin slices of gruyere. What a sublime afternoon snack!

PS: I’m not sure that I want to think about why the persimmons are burning.

Brisket Success!

This was a difficult recipe for the book that I finally had great success with. If you’re thinking it sounds strange for someone who rarely cooks meat to make a big ‘ole brisket, you’re right. All I can say is the book has a recipe for killer ketchup. One makes barbecue sauce with ketchup and one needs some sort of smoky cooked flesh to put barbecue sauce on. Hence brisket.

I was going for an authentic tasting barbecue in the DIY spirit for people who don’t have fancy smokers and the like. To accomplish that I came up with a hybrid method for smoking and then baking the brisket to ensure a smoky flavored piece of meat that wasn’t dried out and tough. It worked. I ended up with a bit of a smoke line and a mildly smoky flavor and even though it’s lean, it wasn’t dried out. You have to slice it thinly though.

These lovely little sandwiches consist of brisket, sauce, and the delightful rolls from Neldam’s Bakery in Oakland. We took them to a 40th birthday party in Davis where they were promptly devoured by scientists and graduate students.

Here’s how to do it:

Make a rub with salt, pepper, cumin, cayenne, smoked paprika, Mexican oregano, New Mexico chili powder, and pounded garlic. Rub on the meat, wrap tightly and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. Reserve a few tablespoons of rub to make a beer mop.

The day you plan to cook the meat, soak some wood chips in the morning and, 5 to 6 hours before dinner, build a low slow fire in the grill.

When you can hold your hand over the coals for several seconds, put the wood chips on a piece of foil on top of the coals and place the meat on the grill fat side up, away from the fire. Close the cover and smoke for one hour, turning and flipping one time halfway through. During the first half hour make a mop out of 1 cup of beer and the reserved rub. Baste both sides when you flip the meat.

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F.

After smoking the brisket, wrap it in foil and place it in a baking dish or on a sheet pan and cook for 3 to 4 hours, depending on the size of the brisket. Remove from the oven and let rest before slicing thinly against the grain and serving.

Happy Glorious Delicious Fall!

Here's how I recovered from the Hunger Challenge. I went to the Berkeley Saturday Farmers' market. Wowie Zowie, so much to buy and cook and eat. I was so happy being there after a three week hiatus caused by various and sundry commitments. Pictured above is my haul. And below, my lunch: roasted River Dog delicata, County Line Farm Wild Arugula, Quetzal Farm Dry Farmed Tomatoes, Morell's Bread, Sierra Nevada Cream Cheese (from the store), and the last of the cheap eggs from the Hunger Challenge. This lunch illustrates how easy it is to eat healthy, high quality, veg-centric, local meals without spending hours and hours in the kitchen.

I also think the amount of food I got for my money was quite amazing. I was more aware than usual of how much money I was spending too and actually, it wasn't that bad. I think about $65. That's a lot of good quality food for $65. Why no eggs? Well, I joined the Soul Food Farm CSA and the first delivery was last night. 2 dozen gorgeous eggs (some of them huge!) and 1 chicken with it's head still wrapped around its body in a restful pose, and feet too! Wanna join? The CSA is still open. I got to meet farmer Alexis too and she's lovely and vivacious and seems to be recovering nicely from the devestating fire last month. Looking to support the farm? There's an event on Sunday the 11th at Pizzaiolo. Admission is $14 and you can support Soul Food Farm by buying raffle tickets. You may even win a fabulous prize!

One more good piece of fall news! We have a book title that everyone is happy with:

DIY Delicious: Recipes and Ideas for Simple Food from Scratch.

Chronicle Books Fall 2010. Galleys arrive next month and the designer is terrific, so it's going to be beautiful!

Hunger Challenge Day Seven

It’s a workday and the last day and the good thing about work days is that it’s much easier to control your situation and eating opportunities. The Hunger Challenge food isn’t that bad so it’s just a matter of not exposing yourself to temptations, which is much easier on a weekday.

Breakfast is egg, toast, melon

Lunch is a small portion of the emergency soup and one tortilla with butter

Dinner brings the last two of what I’ve come to think of as the “Evil Enchiladas”.

I can’t wait to go to bed and get up again to a new day. My clothes are noticeably looser, which isn’t an unwelcome occurrence.

In conclusion, I feel changed by the experience. Never before have I paid so much attention to my emotions around food. Normally I look forward to the adventure of every meal and I love to cook with inspiring ingredients. The challenge put a huge crimp in that. Though I often do eat exactly the kind of food I made for the challenge and I know I can eat healthfully and cheaply, the pure joy of dining was completely gone and there was no room for errors or bad enchilada sauce.

I also have a clear realization of how much planning and preparation goes into eating this way. Not to mention food knowledge, equipment, time, and cooking skills. Eating well on $4 a day requires a predictable, chaos free life, something I don’t think most people have. I also feel that it’s likely that the more you are struggling, the less predictable your life is. Without the time to cook and the joy attached to cooking, I can completely understand why people fall back on the $1 fast food meals. And we’re not even talking about the issue of healthy food access, which is a huge one.

I wish I had the answers that would give people in need the resources they need to cook for themselves. Perhaps it would be community kitchens, similar to the Food Bank’s pantries. Kitchens equipped with stoves and pans and knives where people could come and share resources and work together to cook the food that will feed their families.

For me, I’m glad I can now go back to my self-indulgent ways. I’m eating more slowly, mindfully, and appreciatively than ever before. The Hunger Challenge has made me grateful for every bite and I aim to stay that way.

Here are links to all the other Hunger Challenge Bloggers. Make sure you check out their experiences too!

Agréable Dégustation - New!
Been There Ate That - 2nd year!
Beets and Biscuits - New!
Blog Appetit - 2nd year!
BroadSnark - New!
Budget Bytes - New!
Cooking Rut - New!
Cooking with Amy - 2nd year!
Heat Eat Review - New!
Hoos on First - New!
I Do Not Think That They Will Sing To Me - New!
Indoor Camping - New!
Line Storgaard-Conley - New!
Maria Niles - 2nd year!
Michael Dimock - Roots of Change - New!
Midtown Mark's Hunger Challenge - New!
Muse in Vivo - New!
My Life in Food - New!
Petit Appetit - 2nd year!
Poor Girl Eats Well - New!
Some Dreams Come True - New!
Stellajade by Sarah W - New!
Steve Sando - New!
The Guerilla Gourmet - New!
The Inadvertent Gardener - 2nd year!

Hunger Challenge Day Six

Another weekend day. Uggh. I eat breakfast (oatmeal with half a peach). Then I spend the morning making jam from the figs my friend had brought over the day before.

For lunch I have 1 cabbage roll with a scoop of beans and a 1/2 a pear with peanut butter. I eat with family members, who are all enjoying restaurant leftovers. I feel mad at my food. I’m sick of cabbage rolls.

We decide to head to the MOMA to see the Richard Avedon exhibit. I’m terrified everyone will want to go out to eat afterwards. I don’t want to forgo the exhibit so I put the other half of my lunch pear in a small container with a scoop of peanut butter and I tuck it in my bag. The exhibit is stunning. It marks the first time I don’t think about food for a long stretch of time throughout the Hunger Challenge.

Mercifully, my companions decide that they will go home and cook just to spare me (and save money). I eat the pear and peanut butter on the BART platform on the way home and don’t offer anyone a bite.

For dinner I eat another scoop of beans and a quesadilla made from the leftover chicken, sweet potato and cheese bits (pictured above) from the enchiladas. My companions enjoy oven-fried chicken, arugula-beet salad, and roasted carrots and potatoes. They also have several cookies during the evening. I write Hunger Challenge posts to keep my mind (and hands) off the cookies.

I’m excited for Monday because it’s the last day of the challenge.